Tuesday, August 31, 2010

Serge Lutens - Boxeuses

Tough on top, sweet underneath

I think I'll just keep going with the leather scents this week. So the next one on my list is the brand new Boxeuses from Serge Lutens. Serge Lutens is having fun. I can just tell from his perfumes, that he refuses to be put into a box. Although Boxeuses returns to some of his old palette, with fruity woods, the rest of the perfume is so original it makes me smile, even as it hits me.

Boxeuses starts with a black licorice note, not too sweet, but woody and herbal, like real black licorice. That darkness is quickly joined by another, a tarry, black leather note. The leather is almost charred, with that smokiness that birchtar can have. These two notes duke it out for a while and I thought that maybe Boxeuses was too strong for me. My husband pronounced it "acrid" when I got into the car with him, minutes after spraying it on.

But then a softer side of the fighter starts to show through. Almost stealthily,a  purple plum note creeps in. I thought at first I was smelling that fruity note on someone else. When I pressed my nose to my wrist I still smelled that black leather but plum seemed in the air around me. Gradually, the perfume becomes a lovely plum and wood. It reminds me of the fruity-purple woodiness of Bois de Violette. It makes me want to cuddle up and just sniff my skin. The fighter has become a lover. Even my husband likes it now.

That drydown is so yummy it breaks my heart. Boxeuses is a perfume from Serge Lutens exclusive line and is only available in his shop in the Palais Royale in Paris. A big thank you to Grain de Musc for my sample!

House: Serge Lutens
Nose: Christopher Sheldrake
Notes: wood, leather, plum, licorice

Photo: Rob Beyer


  1. Oh, I am so jealous! I can't wait to try it. I'm a total sucker for SL woodsy, fruity, oriental stuff. And then you mention plum... I just know I will love it. :)

  2. I'm not very familiar with Lutens. I have tried Un Lys (holographic lilies which turned into bubblegum on me) and Fille en Aiguilles (which I love).

    Boxeuses sounds like an odd beauty, captivating because it isn't the easily absorbed aesthetic ideal, and that is what makes it beautiful.

  3. Ines: I hope you get a chance to try ot soon. I'm hoarding my sample, Paris is a trip I haven't had yet, but maybe someday.

    JoanElaine: I have a sample of FeA but I don't remember what I thought of it, I'll have to dig it out. I'm not a fan of lilies or bubblegum, so I think I'll pass on Un Lys.

  4. This sounds very likable. Love the thought of stone fruits resting on smoky leather. I'm a licorice fan and your description of "real black licorice" really makes me want to try this.

  5. This sounds awesome! Like the picture, too.

  6. Oh. I just re-learned how much I like licorice, and of course I've always loved leather. And plum (along with peach) is one of the fruits that I'm most willing to accept in a perfume.


  7. Oh my Wordie - just dying to try Boxeuses ! Lovely review and plum ,apricot ( somewhat ) and peach are the few fruit notes I like.


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